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interview: F.E. Castleberry of Unabashedly Prep.

Unabashedly Prep, in terms of internet years and influence, is practically Old Testament-level text for the menswear world. Guy was one of the first who showed that a viable business could be spun out of taking pretty pictures and talking about vacations. Also, you think the photo above was staged? No. DUDE LOOKS JUST LIKE HE DOES IN PICTURES. He practically wakes up with a tie on.

Castleberry, whose busier now than ever with various projects, answered a few questions sitting, I imagine, at the helm of his old clipper ship.

Who are you and why should we care? 
My name is Frederick Egan Castleberry. I’m a father, brother, son, photographer, fashion designer, all-around A-OK guy. Why should the Post Modern Gentlemen readership care? Well I suppose it might be for the same reasons they read your blog…a specific point of view on living and dressing.

How did Unabashedly Prep first come about?

Unabashedly Prep was born out of boredom. I was bored one day and looking for something to do.

Describe your photography style.

My photography style is best represented by what you mostly don’t see on my blog Unabashedly Prep. Much of my work is about beautiful people having fun…it’s often bright, happy, in motion. “Commercial lifestyle” is probably the correct term.

Describe your personal style.

My sense of style is rooted in a classic approach to dressing but I like folding the old into the new. It’s preppy, classic…yet tongue-in-cheek. Classic with a wink.

You sometimes get into some heated discussions on your blog’s comments. How do you handle the occasional derision?

There is this really cool function in the back end of my blog called the “delete” button. I just hit that.

I’ve often read others argue that prep is intrinsically tied to region. Do you think that true prep can only come from certain geographies?

Yes, I do. Palm Beach, New England, the South…it is those places in which Preppy in it’s purest form is seen in the context of a community. Individual preppy style could feasibly be seen anywhere in the world but as a whole, its roots will always be regional.

Photo via Tommy Ton.

Where do you think Prep is going?

I can honestly see the it going baggier, looser, easier. “Slim fit” seems a bit long in the tooth at times.

If you had to dress in a non-prep style, what would it be?

Late 1800s cowboy. Think [the film] “Tombstone.”

Many street photographers shy away from the camera but you’re often in front of the camera as well as behind. Is this something you planned?

One of the primary motives of creating Unabashedly Prep was to inspire men (and women) to simply dress better. I have a specific point of view on how that should look. Showing other people’s style can only convey so much before showing what/how you’re wearing it is most effective.

What do you think of #menswear and its direction?

I hate that hash tag and everything that it drudges along in its wake. This seems like a trend question and I really don’t pay too much attention to that.

You have a lot of projects going on at once. Would you describe yourself as a photographer first? A designer? A dad? What?

Professionally, I’m a creative. Photography, fashion design, writing—they’re all outlets. I like the mix. It keeps things interesting.

Who are your role models? Professionally, personally, whatever. Why?

I don’t have one living person that I often think “I want to be just like him in every way.” I take bits and pieces from people I come across in my life…that list would be too long to list here and probably far too mundane. I’d be remiss if I didn’t say my character isn’t formed through infinite (though often failed) attempts to be like Jesus the Christ. He was the perfect human being.

Who is the most stylish person you know? What makes them so damn stylish?

The most stylish gentleman I’ve had the pleasure of meeting is Sid Mashburn. He pays attention to fit (then forgets about it), approaches dressing in a timeless yet timely manner, and polishes it off with being comfortable in his own skin.

F.E. Castleberry Interview 3

Who are your heroes in real life?

My sons. They reveal more about myself than anyone else ever could.

My favorite virtue: Hope.

My idea of happiness: A world with no advertising.

My idea of misery: repeating the same day five days a week.

How I wish to die: With purpose.

My motto: The better you dress, the worse you can behave.

My favorite prose author: J.R.R. Tolkien

My chief characteristic: passion.

My favorite quality in a woman: an uninhibited laugh.

Apr 08, 2013 | Categories: Interviews, The Blog | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

courier.

They teach the brush pass in the second phase of field training. It’s as it sounds. The first man carries the package and walks the predetermined route. At some point the courier will come by, usually walking the other way, and “brush” past, picking up the package without ever the two drawing attention. You do it in public, at a busy place like a train station. It’s the rabbit in the hat trick of field operatives — as basic as it gets. You do it at busy places like train stations. Not bus stops. At bus stops people are bored. Their minds and eyes wander and anything even slightly unusual, like two guys bumping into each other, becomes as interesting as Lady Godiva.

Jeremy’s had forgotten his handkerchief back at the bureau office. He was not a field man. He had not performed a brush pass in years. The courier was late, which made things immensely worse.  A man in a black suit (how could he be wearing a black suit in Hong Kong in August?) fiddled with a pack of cigarettes. Jeremy clutched at the package.

At home, his wife was cheating on him. He was sure of it. It was deeply ironic, he thought, that a clandestine agent could be hoodwinked by his own wife. It was probably his neighbor, the accountant. The man was fat and balding but Jeremy had caught him and his wife sharing a vibrant laugh once in the lobby of their building.

The downtown bound G bus came. The door opened but no one got on or off. Frustrated, the bus closed its door and huffed off.

The courier was now inexcusably late. Jeremy reached for the handkerchief he didn’t have. It wasn’t like couriers to be like this. Couriers were usually astute, cunning, ruthless people. Couriers were never late.

Unless, of course, Jeremy thought, the courier wasn’t late at all. He suddenly didn’t feel the need to wipe his brow. Meanwhile the man in black smiled at Jeremy.

Mar 12, 2013 | Categories: Style Fiction, The Blog | Leave A Comment »

the fat man.

October 9. A Thursday. Went to talk to Simon today, the fat man. He said the truck was still 75,000 but he could come down on giving a ride. I said I could get 10,000 and the rest after the trip. He laughed and said how could he trust me? I showed him my bag, with the fruits inside. His eyes widened and he looked up and smiled and asked for the bag. I said I could not give him the bag, as it was what I needed to get to over the border in the first place. He smiled again and took out his rusty machete, a tool from his younger days leading the High Town Boys, from behind his desk and asked for the bag again. I said no again. He wondered why I would risk my life for some fruit. I explained my situation, about the wedding and the tree and the fruit and my daughter. I said that even with his machete he was too fat to fight me. He smiled again but this time he coughed while beckoning for me to come closer. I left.

 

Image via the Sartorialist.

 

Feb 24, 2013 | Categories: Style Fiction, The Blog | Tags: , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

interview: Jian DeLeon.

A few weeks back I internet met Jian DeLeon of Complex mag. Complex, for those of you like me who grew up before vagina pics adorned t-shirts, is a streetwear/menswear/music/culture/lifestyle thingy the likes of which was unforeseen by Judeo-Christian prophets. I met him through a forum (no homo) and badgered him into answering questions. “Peep” it.

 

Who are you and why should we care?

I’m Jian, I write about clothes, and you shouldn’t care, but it’s weird that people do.

How did you get into your line of work?

I worked for free for years until I fooled people into paying me for it. Also, sleeping with a lot of people might help. Maybe.

You had an article recently critical of the way Tumblr has influenced men’s fashion. What’s the big takeaway there?

Essentially the way Internet clothing culture has come to a point where it’s a dick-measuring contest of sorts, and dressing well is now held with some sort of reverence like it’s a talent, when it should just be appreciated for what it is. “Personal” style should be that, it should reflect your taste and interest, not whatever blogs you read.

In the article you also mention, ” Clothing simply can’t be compelling unless it stands for something else.”.  What did you mean by that?

Clothes alone don’t evoke emotion, and if they do, you’re extremely shallow. No one has been brought to tears over the perfect drape or an expertly tailored garment, clothes that have a story—grandpa’s old overcoat, a t-shirt from the band you first liked in college, a motorcycle jacket that reminds you of Marlon Brando from *The Wild One*—they are more than just fabric, they’re a tactile representation of certain memories or values.

How do you think dudes can stop the madness and get back to the business of being stylish?
Buy and wear stuff that you like and speaks to you, not because it’s ”trendy.”

Describe your personal style.
Nerd rebellion.

What makes a dude stylish?
Confidence.

Who are your style icons?
My friends all dress pretty dope. Other than that I don’t have “icons,” I just appreciate guys who know what works for them, but I don’t try to copy anything.

Your favorite virtue.
Realness.

Your idea of happiness.
Chief Keef’s “Love Sosa”.

Your idea of misery.
Zara.

How you wish to die.
Doing something awesome, like testing out a jetpack.

Your motto.
Everybody calm the fuck down, I got this.

What is your present state of mind.
Jet lagged.

Your favorite prose authors.
Right now? William Gibson. Re-reading Pattern Recognition.

Your chief characteristic.
Brevity.

Your favorite qualities in a man/woman.
Not a dickhead.

 

 

Well said.

Feb 18, 2013 | Categories: Interviews, The Blog | Leave A Comment »

interview: Monsieur Jerome

My relationship with M. Jerome started, like most adventures that have changed the world, on the internet. I liked him on The Facebook, and he liked me, and we eventually did a thing. People throw around the “he’s a nice guy” honorific like Pollack does paint but in Jerome’s case it is really true. Nice guy. I picked his brain a bit. Check his work at Monsieur Jerome. 

On getting started.

At 14, one friend gave me his old camera. I tried and enjoyed it as a hobby for a long time until I realized people’s reactions to my pictures. I was really intrigued. Then, few years later, another friend, after seeing my first website, hired me for his company. Since I didn’t go to a photography school, I always assumed it was an accident… until I got another contract, then another, ending up working for magazines.

On what makes a good subject.

Probably the challenge. I love people that are different, who challenging codes, new habits. Fashion to me is all about movement and going forward. Whatever your style, from classic to conceptual, I’m looking for people able to embrace new conventions.

On his photography style.

I can’t tell. I try to be the more informative and flattering as possible.

On his personal style.

In one word? I would say boring. More seriously, I’m a pretty classic guy. I’ve mostly obsessions: brogues, peacoat, scout jackets, plaid, polka dots.

On the style of street photographers.

Yes and no. Yes because they need to have a certain style and message about who they are. But personally, I don’t really care. I photograph people that are the opposite of my style. I feel closer to them by sharing the same passion for fashion not just being well dressed.

On the most important gear to have.

Your eye! No matter what kind of equipment you’ve, if you don’t have a good eye, you won’t able to get good pictures. That’s the trick.

On making it.

If you consider the business side, I’m far from it. The magazine and fashion industries don’t consider bloggers like equals. There is maybe a misconception about their importance and the success that some of us got. But, for obvious reasons so it’s a bit schizophrenic. They just need to embrace the movement.

I do have now a good amount of followers but everything is so impermanent that I don’t take anything for granted.

On role models.

I don’t have any. I always loved the idea of a platform where I can share what I think is relevant now. My followers on Facebook and Instagram gave me the responsibility to be think forward and challenge the conventions.

On the most stylish person he knows.

I love Punks. They are really fascinating and I love the social aspect of the movement. Fashion is too often disconnected and self-centered. Punks are a response to a society evolution. I respect tremendously them for their commitment. Beyond what everybody thinks is cool, there is an ideology.

On trends.

Sportswear is fascinating and might become a bigger source of inspiration.

On America versus the world.

I moved [to America] for personal reasons actually. But I do like how menswear is getting more and more attention. Brands are finally getting younger generations and offering more options to men. Europe, where things have always been better than the USA, is not as reactive now but offers in general more creativity, mostly because of the different cultures. America is where you learn the business side. That’s priceless.

Jan 14, 2013 | Categories: Interviews, The Blog | Tags: , , | 1 Comment »

the ninth.

Each delivery is unique, as is each customer. Such as in the Third Arrondissement. There’s the elderly Francesca with cataracts and her dog Javier. In the Fifth, there’s Alex, who is never not cooking. In the Fifteenth, there’s that house full of artists and plumbers, always spending their pay in two days on exotic nights and sausages. And there’s Dougie in the Ninth, Roberto’s favorite errand, who once chased off an ex-boyfriend with a nunchuku. Roberto would criss-cross the city, always on call, with his trademark white helmet and knapsack, astride his buzzing steed, sometimes visiting the same client several times in a week, sometimes not seeing a client for months, but always it was an interesting affair, each transaction a miniature drama, a miniature practice of capitalism, a miniature nightmare of logistics.

Today, Roberto’s moped took him to a part of Paris who would have rather avoided. It was here in Montemartre that he had had his closest call with the uniformed services, and since that day he had shifted his operation such that it was now entirely through go-betweens. But when his phone buzzed awake that morning and Roberto saw the offer, he scooted out the door, his heart in his pocket.

Roberto wasn’t sure why this was, but he always parked in the same parking spot in Montemarte, a little corner across from a toy store and a magazine shop. No matter the crowds or the traffic, the spot would be open to him, as if reserved just for low lives.

Dec 19, 2012 | Categories: Style Fiction, The Blog | 1 Comment »

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