I love fashion but I hate you.

The Blog

interview: Jason Jean of Citizen Couture.


A brief picking of the mind of Jason Jean, friend and photographer behind Citizen Couture.

On what draws him to the medium.

I sketched when I was younger but set aside the passion to pursue a business degree in college.  Photography had always been in my interest and became a different outlet of re-exploring my creative side. 

On what makes an interesting subject.

People ask me this many times, but I’m not exactly sure.  I believe it’s a person’s confidence and comfort.  The perfect backdrop and light always help set the mood too. 

On his photography style.

Simple portraiture.  Natural lighting and backdrop are a huge factor in my style, so I’m always scouting and keeping mental notes for potential locations.

On the personal style of street photographers. 

My personal style is very simple and comfortable.  You will find me in T-shirts most of the time, although I do enjoy investing in staple pieces. I’ve been getting into some pieces from Sandro lately.

I don’t find it necessary for street photographers to dress well themselves.  Some, like myself, are observers who enjoy capturing people and moments.  I don’t like to draw attention to myself and prefer dressing comfortable enough to move around quickly with a camera.

A tip for new photographers.

I believe one of the biggest mistake new photographers make is relying on “zooming out” when photographing a full portraiture up close.  Unless it’s photographed at a certain level, it typically leads to distortion, and possibly makes the subject very unflattering. 

On gear.

Somewhat important – it depends on what and where you’re shooting.  Camera body and lenses are used in variations, depending on your type of photography and style.  I like looking for cameras bodies with high frames per second to make capture moments and lenses with larger apertures for sharpness and good depth of field.

On “making it” in “the biz”.

The level of “making it” is interpreted differently by each person.  My work is continuously a work in progress and I try not to justify if I’ve “made it” or not.  I’m simply glad that I can pursue something I enjoy.

On role models.

No particular role models at the moment.  Part of the job requires meeting various people.  I’m intrigued with the sense of beauty, style, and/or talent that each possess.  Perhaps, because of the various people I meet, they each have certain characteristics or talents that I look up to.

On the most stylish person he knows.

I can’t pinpoint one person.  I think everyone has a way of interpreting his or her own style and while fashion is quite subjective, I appreciate how broad it can be.  I love how one person can pull off contemporary pieces and another in vintage pieces.  Or how one person may focus on color/patters, and another will focus on shape.

On international style. And New York.

I do see different styles going from country to country, but sometimes it’s difficult to differentiate each one when you’re at an event with attendants from various cities and countries.  Besides the fact that I reside in New York, I find NYC to be a fashion hub and a place to observe style.  With the constant flow of people traveling to NYC, it’s easy to notice the variety of style.

On his passion with cycling.

In bike friendly cities, bicycles become an important mode of transportation and lifestyle.  Like any reason why we buy certain clothes and accessories; the neighborhoods we choose the live; and the décor we buy for our homes, the bicycle we choose to ride becomes a part of who we are.

adventures in pergatory aka a Target store in Queens

I had spent a good wedge of the morning already sitting staring at my computer for a few hours waiting for the Neiman/Target collabo page to reload, transubstantiated from an immersive but teasing advertisement of the collection to a red blooded, American, God-fearing e-commerce site like the Federalists would have always feared. Alas, after two hours and several nagging cals to customer service, I gave up and went reluctantly to bed.

I dreamt of wool blazers and knit hats and funky skateboards that were just out of my reach, always disappearing down and around some red-painted hall for most of the night.

The alarm clocked wretched me out of my hypersleep just before 6:00am. I lurched awake and fired up my devices. There: the promised land. For such a slick Flash-y landing page, the e-commerce experience was strangely muted. I was annoyed that there was no sizing information for most of the pieces, and had to buy a few sizes just for insurance’s sake. I felt the digital equivalent of the sample sale-goer: items finally in hand, finish line/checkout line within eye line and yet…maybe I should stick around and see if I’ve missed anything?

Nah. A few hundred bucks and a few dozen keystrokes later and my prize was in hand and I slipped back to sleep.

***

Not that that didn’t stop me from waking up later and to check out the analog experience.

The Elmhurt Target is typical of a Target X New York City “collabo”. It’s fitted inside a large mall experience, along with other behemoths like a Best Buys and a Mrs. Fields. It’s massive, and yet it pulls a classic sci-fi trick in that the inside seems magnitudes larger than even the bulbous exterior suggests. It takes up several floors, connected by toothy escalators that, through an unholy feat of engineering, can even transport shopping carts. It’s fun to watch suburbanites marvel at the cart-elevating contraption. First world, indeed.

I stop a mohawked sales associate* in the menswear department: Where’s the Neiman stuff? He gave me a befuddled answer and sent me to the fitting room attendant, who sent me “towards the back” of the store, where another associate sent me to the menswear department. It’s truly a testament to Target’s material arsenal that its stores are SO FULL of stuff that an entire collection of said stuff can hide and not be easily detected. It was like being on materialism safari.

May I also add that, like most Target stores I’ve been to which are in large urban environments, most of the people were of color. It was Coming To America except everyone was looking for the perfect toaster or sweater set rather than his Queen. Occasionally you ran into a white person and you half felt like following her as if she perhaps knew about some really secretive speakeasy that was behind the children’s shoes department.

Back to the hunt. I ultimately found the collection, in it’s entirely, next to a section that was, well, pregnant with meaning.

Almost immediately other “fashion-y” people emerged. The drawn Asian woman wearing all black drapey clothes. The young #menswear acolyte. The Japanese couple wearing matching bucket hats. The PR lady tweeting on her iPhone. And there, hung amongst the metallic display trees that populate most of the pastures of Target clothing sections, was the fruit I was after.

 

A review. The material is all wool, and the construction seems decent enough. Even if it weren’t for the vaunted designer brand, it would still be a worthwhile piece at the price. There are functioning buttonholes, which I’m a bit surprised about, but perhaps suggesting that the diligent workers over in Southeast Asia have mastered a feature which once was an indicator of rarified quality.

I wouldn’t fault any jacket nowadays that had just plain ol’ buttons on the sleeves, what with alterations and all. The construction sprites seemed to snip at the details, however — the buttons are hollow and feel cheap, and the tags on the inside are a bit cartoonish. The jacket overall is a sketch of a real Thom Browne jacket, albiet a clever and vibrant sketch. There’s even the coveted back grograin tag.

 

The rest of the collection seems kitschy, but not to a fault. The Altuzarra shakers gleam a gilded gleam. The Wu girl’s dresses hang red and plump like strawberries. The Band of Outsiders “Best Friends” hats are cuddly. The only thing I turned at was the Alice and Olivia bike. I felt if I picked at the floral print with a nail I’d reveal a ‘Huffy’ decal underneath.

Satisfied that I would be satisfied with the items trucking their way towards me, I scooted back down the escalators, wincing for just a moment at the Mrs. Fields (another time, my dear) and rattled my back on the R/E line. I even managed to stay awake.

*May it be known that all of the sales associates I spoke to were polite and well-meaning, if a little brief.

el solitario coveralls reminds you how pathetic your life is

The shittiest thing about being a blogger is the lack of a uniform. I think more people would volunteer for dangerous/shitty jobs if the uniform were awesome. Imagine some janitor decked out in Jil Sanders. You’d be grabbin’ that broom, too, my dude.

Put that uniform thought in the back of your head for a second and then ponder this: workwear is imploding. It’s not good enough to look like an 19th Century miner ever sinse Daniel Day poured that milkshake on the yard in There Will Be Blood and Amazing Moody Music. Jeans and a flannel? How Cobain of you. Now you gotta rock the full coverall like the most stylish dude in “Pimp My Ride.”

That’s why I’ve been bookmarking the El Solitario Coveralls in every iPad I play with in the Apple Store. El Solitario is what the ideal version of you would wish he could be, if your ideal version of you still wasn’t a huge disappointment. The blog is like an MIA video — just pics of women, motorcycles, and doing crazy things in the desert. But unlike MIA they seem like the real deal. And even if they’re not they still have the amazing coverall. Japanese selvedge blah blah you know all the usual shit us bloggers drool over.

Now think about this: bring forth that seed about uniforms from the back of your mind. Imagine now a uniform for bloggers. Selvedge denim El Solitorio X PMG Bloggers Coverall. The map chest pocket could be used to store iPhones/cigarettes. Cinch at the waist for when your ad share revenue is low that month. Long sleeves for when you need to wipe away the tears from nasty comments from mall ninjas.

Almost makes me want to do something useful with my hands besides blogging and artificially inseminating cows. Ah who am I kidding I love cows.

 

dispatches from the dark, part 2

The sun set with the timing of a doting parent. Time to head back. Time to get home before it got too dark. We made a quick run for last minute supplies, skittering about like post-apocalyptic tribesmen, then hopped a cab back into the Dark Zone. Down south, the darkness runs thick.

The line of demarcation is 25th street, and it is as sharp as a meridian. The streets are black-black. Looking down one block is like looking deep down a shrouded, moonless forest path. Shadows creep out and up and form an impenetrable archway. It is largely deserted. Those few you encounter are like specters — moving ethereally, quickly, sometimes glowing from a flashlight, often hooded or cloaked. A scan of building windows reveals no activity, like the buildings themselves are skeletons. It’s a strange sensation to pass a building or facade that you recognize intrinsically, but now has been obliterated by the blackout. Even the structures are like ghosts.

The taxi isn’t so much a car as a blockade runner. Intersections blur by and we can’t help but gaze down at the abyss. Each crossroad is an exercise in life and death. The only lights are from cars, and the occasional reflective vest. I can’t help but wonder what it is like much deeper into the Dark Zone.

We’re jettisoned at our stop and scamper out like infantry abandoned on a far coast, double timing across the street. In the building, one last obstacle: a steep, utterly dark staircase ascent. But back in the apartment, we peer back down at the darkened streets, the small lights glowing like cast off embers.

We lit a smattering of candle then retreated back to bed. It has gotten very cold, like the weather knew it was time to lay down winter on us.

oh, sandy. (dispatches from the dark, part 1)

 

At about 8:30pm, we lost power. You never know what to do when the lights finally go. It’s like reading a book on how to change your tire, and then suddenly finding yourself on a turnpike with the iron in your hand. We lit candles and drank and stood around, prehistoric-style, looking at the flames. I went into survival mode. I compulsively checked and rechecked supplies, water stores, rates of candle consumption. I experimented with what lighting arrangements yielded the most light. At one point curiosity got the better of me and I donned my Burberry and went to the roof. The storm was a layer cake of calm, then wet, then utter wind. It slapped the hat off my head and glared at me in the dark. It chased me off the roof. Back under, we experimented with the guitar and story telling. What little stored electricity we had we spent on incessant tweeting and music. All and all, it was a small party. We stayed up, fueled by alcohol, but found that in natural darkness the urge to sleep was very powerful.

—–

The next morning we wandered out. It is a testament to capitalism that, without shops open due to the outage and lack of workers, people didn’t know what to do with themselves. We just milled about, somewhat curious but mainly not sure what to do with ourselves. Use whichever analogy works. We were zombies. Or prisoners out on the yard. We wandered, slowly, hiking north towards civilization.

I dressed like a hiker. Tall Redwing boots, jeans, a waxed jacket and vintage rucksack, filled with nothing. We headed north with the rest of humanity and foraged primarily for coffee. Street after street and shop after shop was shuttered, but people all generally were in high, if confused, spirits. None talked of anything but the storm. At a friend’s apartment’s lobby, a generator hummed and stank up the space with gasoline. A half dozen phones were jammed into the only live socked in the whole building. News wasn’t good: could be days before power returned.

North of 26th street power functioned but a lack of staff meant still closed shop doors. A strange sight: Starbucks coffee shops with people clinging to the outside. Perhaps mindless zombies returning to their old habits? No. Wireless networks in the shops were still broadcasting, and users congregated outside.

The most valuable thing in the city now is a live power source. We stowed ourselves at a bar on 33rd and every outlet had been sniffed out and crammed with power plugs, each charging a phone. I found one and my phone drank happily. In Manhattan, survival food isn’t MREs or canned goods, it’s chicken strips and Guinness and onion rings. The football game was on.

 

 

Photo credit.

thom browne X neiman marcus X target X WTF X help my ‘X’ button is stuck

Right on the heels of my recent “review” (I say review in quotes because “I” don’t “know” how quotes w”ork”), the guy drops a Target collab right at the feet of the Alter of Cheap And Awesome, complete with blood offering to the God of Cop That Shit Right Now and Cthulu.

It’s part of a wider initiative with Neiman Marcus and Target, one that includes Daniel Plainview favorite rag & bone and brand-with-the-name-of-an-indie-band Band of Outsiders.

Target is definitely trying to corner the #menswear market, what with the recent Odin offering and rumors abound that soon there will be a Tide X Junya Watanabe collection, that Target team members will now be required to smoke outside while being photographed by Tommy Ton, and that the pretzels and nachos sold in the cafeteria will soon be made of cordovan leather.